BEST PLACE TO EAT AFTER 2 A.M.
When I was growing up, Denny’s was good for two things. First, to trip on acid and draw in notebooks and, second, to do dine-and-dashes. Handily winning the category as the only place to eat after 2 a.m., Denny’s could safely be called a culinary slum. The aggressive florescent lighting, the see-and-say menu selection, the rotating banana crème pie in the glass case (in the Kahului Denny’s, this case is called “Fruitful Endeavors”). There is something just so American about Denny’s. Perhaps this is its staying power. Like the voice of Paul Harvey on the A.M. dial, Motel Six, Wal-Mart, Route 66 and sincere smiles, Denny’s is firmly entrenched in American cultural geography. 430 Kele St., Kahului, 873-5550; 2763 S., Kihei Rd., Kihei, 879-8600. [BS]